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江山美如画,自驾游广西(十)——钦州、南宁

  • 2026-06-24 17:21:04
江山美如画,自驾游广西(十)——钦州、南宁
此行广西，我只为钦州预留了短短一日行程，奔赴这里唯一的执念，就是邂逅传说中浪漫至极的粉色野生海豚。出发前特意提前对接好当地船家，敲定了十分人性化的观豚收费规则：120元/人，保证能见到稀缺的粉色海豚；若仅偶遇普通海豚、未见粉豚，仅收取60元/人；倘若全程无缘遇见海豚，则费用全额退还。带着满心期待，我踏上了三娘湾这片滨海渔村。
等候下班快艇出海的间隙，我沿着三娘湾海岸慢慢闲逛，沉浸式感受这座滨海小城最质朴的烟火气息。钦州本就是依海而生的渔村之城，当地村民世代临海而居，一生与大海相依相伴，衣食住行皆源于这片蔚蓝海域。
岸边随处可见围坐在一起的渔民，指尖翻飞编织渔网，海风拂过海岸线，也吹起一根根细密的网线，是独属于海边村落最治愈的日常图景。
这里没有商业化海域浑浊的海水，近海的海面澄澈透亮，清透的海水一眼便能望见水下错落的礁石，蔚蓝海浪层层漫过岸边岩滩，干净又治愈。
我顺着被潮水半掩的礁石小径缓步前行，无意间登上一座近海无人小岛，远远听见清脆的敲击声，几位当地渔家妇女正坐在岸边，轻轻敲打海盘。
走近后方才明白其中缘由：她们敲碎坚硬厚重的海盘外壳，只取出内里鲜嫩可食用的海盘肉，舍弃无用的外壳，省去多余搬运的体力消耗，朴素又通透，是海边人顺应自然、精简劳作的生存智慧。
一旁的滩涂上，一只白鹭慢悠悠踱步游走，不疾不徐，无心觅食，只是自在享受海风与日光，万物从容，大海的温柔大抵就藏在这些细碎瞬间里。
三娘湾素来有着得天独厚的海洋生态优势，作为国内唯一一个能够稳定观测野生中华白海豚的海域，这片海湾常年栖息着三百余头海豚。每年4月至10月是观豚黄金期，灰色、白色、梦幻粉色三种体色的海豚，都有极大概率现身海面，也是无数旅人奔赴此地的终极浪漫。
短暂的岸上游逛结束，终于迎来登船出海的时刻。我们乘坐的是一艘可容纳十余人的快艇，快艇轻快灵活，却也颠簸感明显。同行的母亲年岁已高，身体无法承受海上风浪与船体颠簸，只能留在岸边等候。我给她买了一颗清甜椰子，让她坐在海边吹海风静待我们归来，随后便登船向着深海出发。
快艇驶出平静的内陆港湾，驶入开阔外湾，眼前的海景瞬间豁然开朗。
天高云阔，碧海无垠，彻底告别岸边的人间烟火，满眼皆是山海辽阔。一路乘风破浪，船体起伏颠簸格外明显，我手持手机都难以稳住镜头，画面不停晃动，也愈发庆幸母亲没有一同登船。船头笔直向着云海深处前行，海风呼啸裹挟浪花，这一刻，真切读懂了歌词里“向云端”的自由与辽阔。
万幸此行运气爆棚，船家也连连夸赞我们机缘难得。行至海豚常驻海域，成群海豚接连跃出海面，灰色、纯白色、梦幻粉色三种海豚齐聚海面，轮番破浪嬉戏。波涛翻涌，船体晃动剧烈，我始终难以稳稳握持设备，好在匆忙之间依旧成功录下这群海上精灵跳跃的身影。亲眼看见童话般的粉色海豚穿梭于碧海之间，所有路途奔波都瞬间值得，这场山海奔赴，圆满落幕。
钦州这座小城，没有繁华都市的喧嚣，骨子里始终保留着渔村独有的质朴与安逸。看完心心念念的海豚，心中满载治愈与满足，我们不再停留过夜，当即收拾行程，驱车前往下一站：南宁。
奔赴南宁的初心很纯粹，只为一睹广西博物馆的馆藏风华。出发前我对这座省会城市抱有刻板印象，以为它只是一座千篇一律、主打繁华商业化的省会都市，未曾想旅途开局便接连踩坑：预定的民宿体验极差，硬件设施、卫生细节、居住舒适度全都不尽人意，糟糕的住宿体验大幅拉低出行好感。加之同行伙伴觉得南宁游玩亮点不足，一直催促尽快离开，我们仓促赶路，匆匆掠过诸多本地特色美食，留下诸多口腹遗憾。
真正静下心感受才发现，南宁是一座低调内敛、烟火气浸透街巷的城市，藏着无数不张扬的温柔。可惜此行停留时间太短，只能浅浅一瞥，这份遗憾始终萦绕心底。
旅途之中还偶遇一场意料之外的波折：此前心心念念的三门海景区，官方突然发布公告宣布恢复开放，可公告发布不到一天便紧急删除。我们致电景区工作人员核实，得到答复：虽然景区水位已经达标，满足通航游览条件，但山体周边仍有零星落石隐患，清理排查还需要一整天工期。而自此之后，三门海便一直处于闭园状态，我们终究无缘前往，又添一重旅途遗憾。
逛完广西博物馆，南宁突降大雨，使得我们停滞在馆里，雨伞在车里，未等走到车位肯定被淋透了。馆里文创有伞，价格明显虚高，居然有共享伞，这设施真是太好了。
几经周折顺利办理入住后，雨势稍缓，我们撑着雨伞漫步前往南宁地标三街两巷，打算在老城街巷里寻觅地道晚餐。简单点了几份本地菜品，浅尝过后依旧觉得意犹未尽，终究抵挡不住广西特色风味的诱惑，又专程买了一份酸辣开胃的酸野，解馋，聊胜于无。
次日清晨，我早起去打卡本地热闹早市，却再度落空。南宁人气最高的大官塘片区，繁华尽数藏于夜幕之下，清晨街巷冷清，各大网红美食店铺均未营业，这里从无热闹鲜活的晨间烟火，唯有夜晚才会绽放城市烟火魅力。
其实我早已看好备选民宿，满心想着再多停留一日，放慢脚步，沉浸式感受南宁这座省会城市独有的市井浪漫与老城底蕴。奈何同行伙伴无心停留，只能遵从安排，直接启程返回桂林。
走过这一段旅途愈发感慨：一场舒服的旅行，合拍的旅行搭子，远比惊艳绝伦的风景更加重要。三观契合、节奏同步、愿意互相迁就，才能好好感受旅途每一份温柔，不然再好的风光，也会大打折扣。
最后单独留一个小预告：广西博物馆馆藏丰厚，人文底蕴十足，值得静下心细细品读，后续会单独出一期完整博物馆游记，深度解读八桂大地的千年文脉。
本文来自网友投稿或网络内容，如有侵犯您的权益请联系我们删除，联系邮箱：wyl860211@qq.com 。

26年暑假南宁火车/飞机北京游

【广西护士招聘】护理2人,南宁市邕宁区蒲庙镇卫生院招聘公告

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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.001266s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=d460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.001623s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000854s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000779s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.001353s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000630s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.001694s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 528955 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001117s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1782455241 WHERE `id` = 528955 [ RunTime:0.021107s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 64 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001412s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 528955 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001251s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 528955 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.001104s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 528955 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.014887s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 528955 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.012920s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 528955 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.086059s ]
0.294813s