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生活在南宁某油堆摊,炸油堆的大妈说滚圆了才好看

  • 2026-07-14 02:55:36
生活在南宁某油堆摊,炸油堆的大妈说滚圆了才好看
三月十七日，有风

油锅里的光景，总让我想起别的一些什么。

那双手在围裙上擦了擦。

她说，滚圆了才好看。

滚圆了才好看。

她说话时，油堆在锅里翻着身，一个接一个，像一群笨拙的、裹着糖衣的小太阳。

我站在摊前，看那些面团在热油里膨胀，表皮从苍白渐渐泛出金黄，裂纹里渗出琥珀色的糖浆。

大妈用长筷拨弄它们，让每一个都受热均匀。

她说这话的时候，并不看我，只是看着锅。

那语气，仿佛在陈述一个宇宙的真理，又仿佛只是在说，今天的糯米粉发得不错。

我买了一个。

咬下去。

外壳脆裂，内里绵软，甜得有些发空。

南宁的春天，潮湿得能拧出水来。

空气里有木棉花坠地的闷响，还有这油堆摊升腾的、甜腻的白气。

它们混在一起，裹住我。

我离开家乡，已经很久了。

家乡没有油堆。

家乡有的是另一种圆的东西，在另一种油里翻滚。

此刻我站在这里，像一个误入剧场的观众，看一出与我无关却又无处可逃的戏。

她继续炸着。

动作里有一种近乎虔诚的重复。

每一个新下锅的面团，都要经过她的手，被按扁，又被油的热力重新鼓起，推向圆满。



圆满。

她把那些变得滚圆、金黄的物事捞起来，搁在铁架子上沥油。

它们整齐地排列着，温顺而光亮。

圆满，大约是一种妥协吧。

我想。

在高温与挤压之下，变得没有棱角，没有缺口，通体透着一致的、讨喜的色泽。

旁边的小孩等不及，被烫得直吸气。

大妈笑了。

那笑声很短促，像油锅里爆开的一个小泡。

她说，慢点吃，没人跟你抢。

可我知道，她是在跟时间抢。

跟那锅油的寿命抢，跟那些排队的、逐渐失去耐心的人影抢，跟这漫长而短暂的一天抢。

她的世界，就浓缩在这口锅和这个铁架之间。

滚圆了才好看，是她的美学，大概也是她的生存哲学。

天色暗下来。

路灯亮了，光晕昏黄，像另一个更大、更凉的油堆，悬在天上。

摊子要收了。

她把剩余的油倒进铁桶，锅底的残渣在冷却中慢慢凝结。

一切都将归于平静与固态。

那滚圆的过程，只不过是一场沸腾的幻觉罢了。

风又起了。

我往回走。

嘴里还留着那一点甜，粘在上颚，怎么也舔不掉。

它提醒我，方才的某个瞬间，我确实吞下了一个小小的、滚圆的、属于这座城市的“好看”。



然后它落进胃里，沉甸甸的，像一个无处倾诉的叹息。

铁架空了。

明天，还会有新的面团被按下去，被炸起来，被说好看。

而我大概不会再去了。

那滚圆的模样，我看过了，也吃过了。

也只是这样了。
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  1. CONNECT:[ UseTime:0.000504s ] mysql:host=127.0.0.1;port=3306;dbname=d460;charset=utf8mb4
  2. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `fenlei` [ RunTime:0.000860s ]
  3. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 0 [ RunTime:0.000369s ]
  4. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `fid` = 63 [ RunTime:0.000274s ]
  5. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000528s ]
  6. SELECT * FROM `set` [ RunTime:0.000213s ]
  7. SHOW FULL COLUMNS FROM `article` [ RunTime:0.000503s ]
  8. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` = 534238 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000409s ]
  9. UPDATE `article` SET `lasttime` = 1784121203 WHERE `id` = 534238 [ RunTime:0.020035s ]
  10. SELECT * FROM `fenlei` WHERE `id` = 64 LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000461s ]
  11. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534238 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000555s ]
  12. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` > 534238 ORDER BY `id` ASC LIMIT 1 [ RunTime:0.000415s ]
  13. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534238 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10 [ RunTime:0.003417s ]
  14. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534238 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 10,10 [ RunTime:0.008706s ]
  15. SELECT * FROM `article` WHERE `id` < 534238 ORDER BY `id` DESC LIMIT 20,10 [ RunTime:0.012198s ]
0.147294s